Behind the Scent: An Interview with Celine Barel on Aesop’s New Fragrance, Aurner
“Aesop’s creative process is deeply rooted in storytelling and synesthesia. They don’t just give you a brief—they give you a song, a palette of colors, or even poetry. ”
Recently, I had the privilege of sitting down with Celine Barel, the renowned perfumer behind Aesop’s latest creation, Aurner. Known for her innovative approach to fragrance, Celine also crafted Tacit, Aesop’s first fragrance released in 2015. In this conversation, Celine shared the fascinating story of how Aurner came to life, her creative inspirations, and the unique elements that make this scent truly one of a kind.
Asia: Celine, it’s such a pleasure to have this conversation with you! Let’s dive right in. Can you start by telling us a little bit about Aurner? What’s the inspiration behind it, and what notes define this fragrance?
Celine: Thank you, Asia! Aurner was designed to be a non-conventional floral—a “defiant bloom,” if you will. We wanted to create something exciting and innovative that still fit perfectly within Aesop’s olfactive DNA. That was the challenge because florals aren’t typically the playground for Aesop fragrances.
We started with research into what a floral fragrance could mean for Aesop and eliminated anything too expected. Often, beauty lies in the unconventional. For Aurner, that meant focusing on magnolia leaf instead of the more familiar magnolia flower.
Celine: Asia, let’s do a little exercise. If you smell the magnolia flower and then the magnolia leaf, how would you describe the difference?
Asia: The magnolia leaf smells incredibly crisp and green—it’s refreshing, almost eucalyptus-like. It reminds me of taking a cold shower infused with eucalyptus, or the feeling of stepping into a freshly cleaned, sleek space. It’s invigorating, with a sharp freshness that feels so modern.
In contrast, the magnolia flower is much sweeter and fruitier. It has this syrupy, tropical quality—like an overripe fruit that’s just a bit too vibrant. It’s beautiful but leans much more into the feminine and lush side of the spectrum.
Celine: Exactly! That’s why we chose the magnolia leaf. Its crispness, tenderness, and unexpected quality felt so much more aligned with the idea of a genderless, unconventional floral. The leaf captures the essence of magnolia without the overly ripe, tropical elements of the flower.
Asia: I have to say, Aurner has this mischievous quality to it—like it’s playful but also bold in a way that surprises you.
Celine: I love that you picked up on that! Yes, Aurner is a bit mischievous. It has an edge that makes it stand out, but it’s balanced by moments of tenderness. It’s this duality that we wanted to bring to life.
Asia: That choice definitely sets Aurner apart. I know you also incorporated woody notes. How did you approach that part of the fragrance?
Celine: To ground the floral notes, we built a woody accord using cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli. But we didn’t use just any cedarwood or patchouli. We sourced luxurious fractions of these materials. For example, instead of the standard cedarwood oil, we used “cedarwood heart,” a creamier, less dry version that feels more refined. Similarly, the patchouli we used underwent a crystallization process, resulting in a cleaner, brighter version called “patchouli heart number three.”
Asia: That attention to detail is remarkable. It seems like you were crafting more than just a fragrance—you were telling a story.
Raw materials for Aesop’s Aurner
Celine: Exactly. Aesop’s creative process is deeply rooted in storytelling and synesthesia. They don’t just give you a brief—they give you a song, a palette of colors, or even poetry. For Aurner, they shared Nina Simone’s song “Lilac Wine,” a poem by Li Qingzhao about impossible love, and hues of jade inspired by Werner’s Nomenclature of Colors. These elements guided the tension and contrast we wanted to achieve in the fragrance.
Asia: That’s such a poetic approach to perfumery. Were there any surprises during the creation process?
Celine: Yes! The most surprising element was chamomile. One evening, after struggling to find the “wow” factor, I was using Aesop’s hydrating chamomile mask and thought, “This is it!” Chamomile is a forgotten flower in modern perfumery, often used minimally in cosmetics. We decided to push it to its limits, pairing it with magnolia leaf to create something truly unique. The chamomile adds honeyed, herbal warmth, bringing the magnolia leaf closer to the floral without losing its crispness.
Asia: It sounds like the fragrance balances complexity and simplicity beautifully. How did you manage that?
Celine: That balance is one of Aesop’s signatures. Aurner’s formula is deceptively simple, with very few ingredients, but each one is carefully chosen and perfectly dosed. There’s no room for anything unnecessary. It’s a process of engineering and artistry—removing anything non-essential while pushing the remaining elements to their fullest potential.
Asia and Celine
Asia: Hearing this, I can tell that Aurner is more than just a fragrance. It’s an experience. How would you describe its overall character?
Celine: Aurner is a fragrance of contrasts. It’s tender yet bold, fresh yet warm. The woody base gives it depth and long-lasting vibrancy, while the magnolia leaf and chamomile create a bright, crisp, and inviting top. It’s genderless, modern, and—as you said—a little mischievous.
Asia: Mischievous—I love that description! Thank you so much for sharing this journey with us, Celine. Aurner sounds like a masterpiece.
Celine: Thank you, Asia! It’s always a joy to talk about the creative process, and I’m thrilled to share Aurner with the world.
